To sew a bra, you need various materials.
Lace
There are different types of lace, such as mirror lace. With this type of lace, the top and bottom are identical but mirrored (as seen in the top picture). Additionally, there is one-sided lace, where the decorative edge is only on the top, so you need to buy two separate pieces (as shown in the left picture). You can also choose between stretch and non-stretch lace. The left picture shows non-stretch lace, and the right picture shows stretch lace. Generally, stretch lace has coarser patterns.
Tulle
There is a difference between tulle and mesh: mesh is stretchy, while tulle is not. I always use tulle when making bras.
Did you know that tulle has a right and a wrong side? By running your finger over it, you can feel a rough and a soft side. The soft side is the right side, which you’ll want against your skin.
Picot Elastic
Picot elastic is available in various widths. I often use 10 mm picot elastic. Keep in mind that when you buy a pattern, you’ll need to add the extra millimeters for the elastic. For the bottom edge of a bralette, I often choose a wider elastic for extra support.
Shoulder Straps
Shoulder straps also come in different widths. If you look in lingerie stores, you’ll see that small cup sizes often use 10 mm shoulder straps, while larger cup sizes typically use 15 mm straps. The more support you need, the wider the shoulder strap should be.
Lingerie Elastic
Lingerie elastic can sometimes be tricky to sew because it’s so narrow. If you struggle with it, try using a wider elastic or switch to picot elastic as an alternative.
Underwire Channeling
There are even different options for underwire channeling. Some are pre-shaped with a rough and soft side. Always ensure that the soft side is against your skin for the most comfort. There’s also channeling that’s soft on both sides and highly flexible.
Boning
Which boning should you choose? There are various types and sizes, ranging from metal to hard plastic or flexible plastic. I prefer flexible plastic on a roll because you can easily cut it to size. Hard plastic boning can’t be customized, so you need to ensure that your channeling is wide enough to fit it. Metal boning looks the best you can size it using pliers to snip the ends.
Sliders and Rings
How do you choose the right size sliders and rings? It depends on the width of the shoulder strap you’re using. By threading the strap through the slider, you can see if it fits nicely or if, for example, the slider is too large.
Bra Closure
The same goes for the bra closure. Smaller cup sizes typically use closures with two hooks, while larger cup sizes often use closures with three hooks. Always look at your own bras: what closures do you use, and which do you find most comfortable?
Underwire (Optional)
For the Loïs bra, you don’t have to use an underwire, but keep in mind that without one, the center part will never fit snugly because there is no reinforcement. I’ve made bras with and without underwires for myself.
Do you have any more questions? Feel free to ask; I’m happy to help! :)